Brake seizing on

for our overseas visitors
Gebruikersavatar
Hanomaad
Berichten: 823
Lid geworden op: 08 mei 2011, 11:07
Locatie: Amsterdam

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Hanomaad »

I did a revision on my rear brakes about a month ago.

I spent:

€74 for 2 new ATE cilinders including brake hose
€60 for new brake linings (for the entire axle)
2 x €16,95 for a complete new set of springs

€167.88 in total. All from this Düsseldorfer specialist shop in Germany:

http://www.basiscampberlin-onlineshop.de/Bremsanlage_1

Good people, sometimes a bit slow to respond, but they ship to NL, so probably also to elsewhere in Europe, contrary to what some people on this forum have told me. Nice place to visit, too. Lower labor rates than NL. Lower VAT. They also sell on Ebay but you'll end up paying the Ebay markup, which is hefty.
Wolvesamongus
Berichten: 89
Lid geworden op: 06 jan 2014, 14:51
Locatie: Norfolk

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Wolvesamongus »

Thanks guy :up: I have to look at the rear brakes this weekend I am hoping the shoes are good like the front, how long did it take you per side?

Regard-------Kim
Gebruikersavatar
Hanomaad
Berichten: 823
Lid geworden op: 08 mei 2011, 11:07
Locatie: Amsterdam

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Hanomaad »

I took my time and spent most of a weekend on my rear brakes because I had never done it before. I didn't actually replace the cilinders as they were still okay enough, but I did try. The two little bolts on the back were not giving with, and I decided to wait with replacing until I had brake tubing at hand in case I would have to re-terminate.

Removing the old lining and riveting new lining on took me the better part of one afternoon. It's basically just a matter of drilling out the old rivets and slamming new ones back together using a big bolt on either side, locking one in a vise underneath and using the other to hammer from the top, like this:

Afbeelding

The linings came with new copper rivets for that €60.

Putting it all back together takes a bit of practice and sometimes frustration to get the springs back in place when all you have is a couple of screwdrivers and pliers. There are special pliers for this purpose, but I did not have those.

Be sure to apply a little bit of copper paste to all the places where steel connects and needs to move. I also applied some on the big spring that comes out of the handbrake cable.

Once you have it all back together it is very important to calibrate the brakes properly. That means have the handbrake cable hanging loose (by adjusting at the front, under the lever), then tightening the shoes by means of the adjuster screw so that the lining almost hits the drum, and only then tighten the hand brake again. It helps to push on the brake pedal a few times in between doing the adjustment, as this will make sure the shoes will center properly. Sometimes you will find that the lining hits the drum upon adjusting, and then pushing on the brake pedal will subsequently get the drum to rotate freely again.

Note that the handbrake should pull fully tight within about 7-8 notches on the lever.

Maybe you know all this already, but throwing it out there just in case not. I'm a relatively inexperienced brake mechanic, but I've driven a few hundred km since my maintenance and I'm still alive. This was also a very helpful instruction video series for me:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3YPcqJFUlc
Wolvesamongus
Berichten: 89
Lid geworden op: 06 jan 2014, 14:51
Locatie: Norfolk

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Wolvesamongus »

Thanks for all the information, yes the availability of parts for these Busses are much better in Europe and the price much cheaper, I have watched the YouTube before Franz-Joseph is the man, I also read the Waterpeople article dealing with rear brakes.
I will tackle the rear brakes Sunday all being well but first I have to sort out the getting back on the front drum as explained in my original post, would you know if the oil seal on the inner bearing front wheel should sit flush because I can push the bearing down about 8mm to seat it and there is a gap between it and the oil seal, at the moment it sits flush just thinking it might have pulled out a bit when I removed the hub which needed a lot of very hard pulling to remove, as stated in my post the hub goes on for all but the last 15-20mm it spins freely not binding, brakes adjusted fully in And centred I can't work it out, how tight is that oil seal on the spindle? I am not sure if I should just get both heals on it and kick hard, and yes those springs are big frustration without the right tools but Ok done, thanks again.

Regards----Kim
Gebruikersavatar
Arno Z
Berichten: 523
Lid geworden op: 11 mei 2011, 15:01
Locatie: Ouderkerk a/d Amstel
Contacteer:

Bericht door Arno Z »

So, UK is no longer a part of Europe? Has the island drifted off? ;)
Wolvesamongus
Berichten: 89
Lid geworden op: 06 jan 2014, 14:51
Locatie: Norfolk

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Wolvesamongus »

Lol, OK France, Germany, Holland, Italy etc etc etc.

Regards -------Kim fellow European
Gebruikersavatar
Admin
Site Admin
Berichten: 4379
Lid geworden op: 24 nov 2004, 17:45
Locatie: Haulerwijk (ZO Friesland)
Contacteer:

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Admin »

Like the weather-forecast on a foggy day: "The Continent is isolated".....
Groeten,

Ernst / Admin


If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.


No man can deny, die Gedanken sind frei!
Wolvesamongus
Berichten: 89
Lid geworden op: 06 jan 2014, 14:51
Locatie: Norfolk

Re: Brake seizing on

Bericht door Wolvesamongus »

Like today here in the UK dark, damp, rank I sat in front of my SAD lamp for twenty minutes this morning like a reptile before I started on the front brakes, all done today and good, the hubs just needed a good hard shove and twist I will tackle the rears in the morning it's been a long time since I messed with hubs and shoes like in the late sixties and seventies lol.

Regards-----kim
Plaats reactie

Wie is er online

Gebruikers op dit forum: Geen geregistreerde gebruikers en 2 gasten