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I have overhauled the brakes all round new cylinders and bled them as I went, fresh fluid in all the lines and in the reservoir, but I want to get the old fluid out of the clutch pipes but I don't want it back in the brake system as when you bleed to the front drivers side brake, can I just bleed from the clutch cylinder? pipe into a bottle of deep fluid so no air returns, someone behind the wheel good communication open nipple they push down on clutch peddle and hold I tighten nipple they let go of the peddle repeat until clear fluid in bleed line. Regards------Kim

That's one way, which requires two persons.

The way I bled my brakes as well as the clutch was to use the Eezibleed kit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lz8t6ZkVSQM

This can be done by just one person. Mind you, there is always a risk of making mistakes that can result in air geting into the system from one of the bleed nipples. For the brakes I've had no problems in bleeding this out again, however for the clutch it was a bit of a bitch getting all the air out which can remain trapped in the top of the cilinder unable to reach the bleed nipple.

The best way to un-air the clutch cilinder is by disconnecting it, then letting it hang upside down and to then press deeply into the cilinder with a big screw driver (as if the clutch lever itself it doing so). Subsequently let the plunger come back to its resting position again. Do that a couple of times and you are sure to get _all_ the air out.

It's a bit of a hassle disconnecting it as one of the bolts is hard to reach, but you should be fine with a ratchet wrench using a flexible coupler in the middle.

I've had to learn the above method the hard way, when I had a shitty clutch hose installed when my mechanical clutch was replaced for a hydrolic one. This was around the same time of year, in the same sort of cold.

note ! , where hanomaad writes disconnect , he actually means dismount from it's position , so one must take out the two 13 millimeter head bolts and by letting the work-ram hanging down all the air in the chamber can only escape up the line and by manually pushing the piston up , by means of a bigger screwdriver (phillips) one pushes the air out and by releasing slowly , given the reservoir is plenty filled up , the new fluid will fill the ram without any air , then it's easy to remount the unit in place . it takes quiet some force to push in the piston in , sometimes I use longer bolts which I replace by the original ones in the final moment.
one can see the MB ram is never to get bleeded properly ,hence the position of the bleeder , it's simply not in the right position. it works on a ramp of steep hill with the rear lower than the front of the vehicle .

By disconnect I meant to disconnect the cilinder from its mounting position. Not to disconnect the hose itself of course.

Credits go to DVIII for teaching me this method.

Thanks all, there is no air in the clutch I think, it feels good to The foot pressure and gear change is good, I just want the old fluid out and new in.
The weather is so shit and has been while I did the brakes I think I'll try the two person method first with good timing, if that fails then the method suggested by Hanomaad and DVIII for teaching him.

Regards---Kim